Plucky Survivors See Europe Day 20: Rome
Date: Saturday, June 20, 2026
Start: Rome, Italy
End: Rome, Italy
Miles Traveled: 3.38 miles (walking)
Highlights:
- Rome Opera House
- Roma Pride
- Heat Wave
It was another sweltering day in Rome, with heat warnings and temps at or near100. Perfect for a parade! <insert sarcasm here>
I rested and iced my leg and it felt better this morning, but I didn’t want to push it so decided to stick as close to the hotel as possible.
I had breakfast at a place around the corner called Osteria Cavour, which was one of the few places open and serving something other than pastries or pasta at 10 in the morning. Apparently, breakfast is not a thing here in Rome.
I had scrambled eggs, ham, and cheese on toast and it was food. That’s about all I have to say on the subject.
Breakfast – or at least the kind we’re used to – is not a thing in Italy, apparently.
Then it was a few blocks to the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma or Rome Opera House if the Italian confounded you.
I went on a guided tour with two other people, a couple from Germany, and there was a bit of getting to know you. Hallmark is not thing either, so they weren’t impressed. Not that I was trying to impress, but they were excited to learn I ran a theatre company and throughout the tour I got asked questions by them and the guide about the intricacies of theatre design because the Club One stage is just like the Rome Opera House.
I was able to explain why the stage is raked and why the orchestra pit is lowered (perspective and acoustics, respectively), so I managed to score some theatre cred with them.
The house was built around 1880 and has been updated many times since then with major renovations after WWII. They didn’t take down the big marble engraving over the stage honoring Benito Mussulini and when asked why the tour guide said, “memory is important.” Under the fascist reign they did install the massive chandelier so maybe they were good for something.
The guide was great. My favorite part is when she said, “Italian opera is wonderful, beautiful, so moving… but the women always die. Why is that?” To which, I responded, “Because it was usually written by men.” The Germans laughed. The guide nodded and put her finger to her nose – exactly.
The lobby with an adverstisment for La Traviata as directed by Sophia Coppola. I wanted to go but I didn’t bring a tux.
The Rome Opera House – the woman on the right is our guide.
Four tiers of boxes plus a gallery above.
The Royal Box then the Dictator Box now the Presidential Box.
The orchestra pit.
More of the Rome Opera House.
The view from the Royal Box.
Looking up from the Royal Box.
Speaking of which, tomorrow evening, Sunday, is the opening night of “La Traviata” directed by Sophia Coppola and there were a few single seats left so I considered getting a ticket. The problem is that since it is opening night, the dress code is formal, and I left all my tuxedos back home. Yes, I have multiple tuxedos and I’m not buying another one!
I rested and iced my leg for a bit then headed out for the Pride parade.
Proving that gay people are united in certain commonalities, the parade that was supposed to start at 3pm didn’t actually start until 4:30pm. We call that GST or Gay Standard Time.
I caught the beginning of it by my hotel and there were thousands of people out to witness it.
Waiting for the parade to start.
Priscilla Queen of the Desert Truck!
The parade finally begins.
There were a few people out. Shade was at a premium.
The only reason that it looks less crowded in this shot is because I was in the shade and was shooting toward the non-shade.
Then I caught the subway down to the Colosseum and the little “gay street” where several bars are located. They had a stage with drag queens and other entertainment gearing up for the arrival of the parade all in the shadow of one of the world’s most iconic landmarks.
The “Gay” Street right next to the Colosseum. I’d make a gladiator joke here, but it’s too easy.
Since it had started so late, it wasn’t going to get there until 6:30 or so and I needed food. I picked a place that had a table but wound up choosing well because the Caesar Salad with chicken and the pizza with sausage and mozzarella was terrific. Way too much food and I didn’t eat half of it, but it was very good and I had a lovely conversation with two dads and their two kids 10 and 13 from San Francisco sitting at the table next to mine. Random chat has been hard to come by here, so it’s nice to speak in English for awhile and not have to worry about being a stupid American who didn’t bother to learn the language.
Chicken Caesar and a sausage pizza. Way too much food.
The parade finally arrived and it was another joyous celebration. I even got out and walked in it for a minute in the shadow of the Colosseum, which is kind of cool.
Pride by the Colosseum.
An insanely crowded subway car ride came next…
The way she looks is the way I felt.
I’m now back at the hotel icing the leg again – it isn’t happy with me for walking over 3 miles despite the “I’m going to stay near the hotel” thing – but tomorrow should be a pretty chill final day in Rome. And by chill, I certainly don’t mean the temperature. It’s supposed to be over 100 degrees again. The air conditioning in my room feels really nice right now.