Plucky Survivors See Europe Day 17: Milan to Florence

Getting out of Milan involved more death-defying feats but once I got to the highway, things were much better.  The drive from Milan to the Bologna area is not exactly scenic – long expanses of flat plains and completely straight roads.

But once I passed Bologna I entered the Tuscany region and wound my way through the Apennine Mountains, which involved more twists and turns and loooooong tunnels – we’re talking four or five miles.  They were so long that Waze got very confused and kept trying to reroute me into the wall.  Once outside the tunnels it is much more interesting visually.

I arrived in Florence around 1pm and immediately found myself driving through an LTZ.  I’m going to have some hefty fines to pay when I get home.

The Hotel Plaza Lucchesi in Florence is right on the banks of the Amo River, just a few steps away from the old town neighborhood.  I was happy to arrive and eager to rest a bit in the air conditioning, only to be told by the very nice desk agent that they didn’t have my reservation.

I found the confirmation number and showed it to him confidently.  He looked at it and said, “Is for tomorrow.”

Okay, so here’s the deal.  I have booked over 30 hotels and if I only mess up once, I feel like I’ve done a pretty good job.

Luckily the desk agent took pity on the stupid American tourist, and I was lucky enough that there was a room available tonight.  It’s lovely, with a nice terrace overlooking the river.

I went out to eat at a restaurant called Il Francescano Trattoria based on the recommendation of the concierge.  Along the way I snapped some pictures of the lovely old town area.  I didn’t dawdle though, because it was roughly 1 billion degrees outside.

The restaurant was a tiny slip of a place with only a handful of tables and Italian waiters who look like they’ve been doing the job for 50 years.  I didn’t want to eat too much in the heat, but the carbonara beckoned and I couldn’t resist.  It was divine – not too creamy, with chunky bits of guanciale and no peas – that’s an American thing.

Then I went to the Uffizi Gallery, renowned as one of the best fine art museums in the world. 

Here’s the deal.  When it comes to art, I’m something of a philistine.  I can appreciate the craftsmanship and the skill, but I am not the type of person who can stand and stare at a painting.  I just don’t get it.  What made this particular painting become something that is masterful enough to hang in the Uffizi versus the countless others that were just as good that rotted away in someone’s basement?

At a minimum, tell me the story.  Tell me why the artist painted this particular painting at this particular time and in this particular place.  Give me context and I can get engaged, but here there really was none.

The bulk of the top floor is taken up by Italian artists, mostly filled with paintings that had either the Virgin Mary or Jesus or some derivation of same.  After a while they all looked the same to me.

The next floor down is mainly portraits of people I’ve never heard of.  I did find one room where the paintings were kind of graphic, which intrigued the horror movie fan in me, but there was no information on what inspired the artist to go this macabre, so I was left with, “Huh… cool.”

I was able to get a photograph of the nearby Ponte Vecchio Bridge, a Florence landmark that was recreated over Lake Las Vegas for a luxury housing development that Celine Dion used to live in.

I was going to go to the Galileo Museum, but the heat and the crowds were getting to me, so I went back to the hotel to enjoy the air conditioning.

It cooled off by about 8pm and I took a walk to soak up the neighborhood.  I really like Florence – it’s got character and energy but still feels easy going.

Dinner… In New York City there is an outpost of All Antica Vinaio, an Italian sandwich shop that I’ve always wanted to try, but every time I got there the line is down the block.

The original is here in Florence and while there was a line, it was manageable.  My choice, prosciutto with onion crème, provolone, and tomatoes.  I get now why it’s so popular.

On the way back to the hotel, I happened by a place selling bombolino, which are basically sugar coated donuts stuffed with various fillings.  I got the salted caramel and the dark chocolate and let me tell you, they put American donuts to shame.

I really wish I had more time to explore Florence but tomorrow it’s on to Rome!