Plucky Survivors See Europe Day 59: Lisbon to Porto

Another relatively easy drive today, heading north out of Lisbon to Porto.  Along the way I could see smoke from wildfires in the distance but wasn’t able to stop to get a picture.

I arrived in Porto and had to cram PluckyMobile 2 into yet another ridiculously tiny European parking garage.  How I have managed to not scrape up the entire side of the car or rip off a mirror is beyond me.  I still have time so don’t count my chickens, so to speak.  Eh… that’s why I took all the insurance.

The Chic & Basic Gravity hotel is located in the heart of historic Porto, just a few blocks from Livraria Lello for those who know Porto.  It’s a really cool hotel with a schtick that involves everything being upside down.  The planters on the ceiling, the funky neon signs in the hall, the wallpaper in the elevators, and even the pair of shoes on the ceiling of my room.  There’s a lovely bar/courtyard, a TV room, and more.  My room has a very nice terrace and while the view isn’t as spectacular as some have been, it’s more than good enough.

I hadn’t eaten so I walked up the block to the hotel staff recommended Casa Guedes Oliveiras, a casual restaurant where I had a rissole de pernil, a savory snack of pastry stuffed with roasted pork and caramelized onion, and a sandwich with roasted pork, soft sheep cheese, and caramelized bacon.  Both were excellent.

From there I went exploring, finding a couple of charming streets and funny shops including one called The Portuguese Cock.  The sign in the window says “Don’t be a dick.  If you take a photo, at least come inside and seem my work.”  I took a photo and went inside.  It’s an art shop/souvenir shop with all sorts of offbeat and off-color items that I intend to buy some of before I leave.

Speaking of offbeat and off-color, I noticed signs for something called the Museum of Sex, which apparently recently opened.  It was just a couple of blocks away so off I went.

It’s not unlike the sex-focused museums I saw in Prague and Barcelona (and, I’m guessing, the one I will be seeing in Amsterdam), with art, objects, and information about the history of sex.  It’s a little more cheeky but a lot less comprehensive than the Barcelona one, so it didn’t take long for me to get through it.  If you’re reading this on Facebook, there are some photos I can’t post so if you really want to see them, go to PluckySurvivors.com for the uncensored version.

My intention was to go to Livraria Lello next, so I wandered through the old town area and took lots of pictures.

The jury is still out, but I think I like Porto better than Lisbon at least so far.  And not just because the hills aren’t as steep and the temps are in the high 70s instead of WTF 90s.  Not to sound too flower child, but Porto seems to have a better energy that I vibe with.  Although, sticking with that metaphor, I wish I had been offered drugs from people on the streets as often as I have in Lisbon and Porto when I was in my 20s and actually doing lots of drugs.  Why do people think I want coke?  Is it the white guy tourist thing?

Livraria Lello, for those who aren’t familiar, is a famous bookstore – often called the most beautiful one on Earth.  I knew it was a popular tourist attraction, but I didn’t realize you had to buy tickets.  Even with them, the lines stretched down the block.  I’ll try again tomorrow.

Luckily, almost right next door was an Amorina outlet, so of course I had to get some chocolate and strawberry sorbet to make up for missing out on the bookstore.  We’ll call it “self care.”

After a respite at the hotel, I headed back out for dinner to a place I found called Taberna Londrina.  I was drawn by their menu featuring Francesinhas, a Portuguese sandwich that seemed too good to be true.

Before I got there, I started with garlic bread covered with cheese and bacon.  Self care, people!

Then on to the main event… there are a variety of different ways and ingredients you can get this, but mine had layers of toasted white bread, a hamburger patty, ham, an egg, and cheese, which is then melted by pouring a sauce made of tomato and beer over the top of it.  So, no calories or cholesterol at all.  Pretty sure it was gluten-free, too.  But seriously, I took one bite of this and said to myself, “This may be one of the best things I’ve ever eaten.”  I was worried about the beer part, but while there were hints of it in the flavor, the beef, the ham, the egg, the tomato, and the cheese all popped out on their own making it a symphony of flavors instead of just one thing.  I loved it and may go back for more.

Tomorrow is a full day of exploring Porto.  Until then.